Sketches from Cook it Raw: Trees
Rene Redzepi sat at a table surrounded by journalists. Six people were helping him snip the thousands of pine needles necessary to make the ....
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Sketches from Cook it Raw: Lakes
The fishermen had been out since before dawn. Sober-faced and silently smoking, they shook out their nets, and the fish made a gentle ploppi....
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Sketches from Cook it Raw: The Lichen
The lichen that carpets the floor of the Lapland forests is plush and pliant, moist and springy to the touch. It blooms in jade-toned terres....
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A Little in Love with Hong Kong
Over the weekend, I ate blood. I gambled at the temple of tack that is the Venetian. I sweated my ass off running from meal to meal and love....
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We Say Oui to Kagurazaka
In the midst of Tokyo’s garish fluorescent glow, Kagurazaka feels like ananachronism. With its stone paved alleys and sloping, lantern-lit....
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Strategy Is Everything
This is as true in sake tasting as it is in war. At a recent sake fair in Ochanomizu, however, I found myself without one, drifting around a....
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This Link is Not Dead
I heard their muffled laughter as I tiptoed through the front door. Thick with alcohol and insinuation, it echoed heavily down the corridor,....
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Festive Tokyo
The foot traffic in and out of Harajuku station was astounding. At several points between the platform and the exit -- a distance of about 2....
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When Inspiration Doesn’t Strike
This past April, JP was accepted into a graduate program in socio-linguistics. It's a good thing, one of those logical career-building moves....
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Prepare Your Palate: Ginjo Shinshu Festival 2010
....
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The Other Side of Kinshicho
The neighborhood of Kinshicho has a somewhat unsavory reputation. It is perhaps best known for its abundance of “gaijin pubs” (aka seed....
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Why Do I Have Spring Fever?
The last time I attended a really big sake event in Tokyo about six months ago, an older woman, who had clearly had a little too much to dri....
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Tempt Me with Tempura
Although sushi is probably Japan’s most famous culinary export, tempura is a close second. Wooing the world through the international lan....
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Sake no Jin and One Last Look at Niigata
The participants at last week's Niigata Sake no Jin festival could have easily numbered over 80,000 people. As I looked across the crowds, I....
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Quiet Luxury in Shibata
My suite at the Tsukioka Onsen resort is a small-scale, modern approximation of the summer homes where samurai once retreated for periods of....
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A Taste of Murakami
I'd heard that Murakami was famous for its salmon. Somehow I didn't make the connection between the seaside town in northern Niigata and the....
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The Niigata Hustle
Our time in Niigata City was hectic. After our visit to the senbei factory, we rounded out the day with a trip to the Northern Culture Museu....
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Make a Wish
The weather in Yahiko yesterday was gloriously warm. After three days in the frozen center of Snow Country, it was nice to be able to walk a....
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Eye of the Tiger in Niigata
My morning yukata is bright blue, covered with pink and white flowers. We arrived in the quaint village of Yahiko after 6:00 yesterday eveni....
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Onward and Art-ward Ho
The train speeds on from Yuzawa north toward Tokamachi. It’s blinding white out, a pristine expanse of snow dotted with buildings done in ....
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A Snowy State of mind in Yuzawa
As I look out my window this morning, the sun is peeking through the clouds over the mountains. Behind me, steam billows up from a distant c....
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Damn My Eyes
For they are far bigger than my stomach. Unfortunately, that didn't stop me from stuffing my face with everything that came into my line of ....
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Playing Catch-Up
I woke up at 6:30 this morning feeling as close to human as I had in days. Jet lag has not been kind. I waded through the weekend in a fog,....
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The Soul of Japan through the Drinking Glass
It happens to the best of us. We go through our days, wrapped up in routines as comfortable as the sweats we used to wear in college. No fac....
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Chichibu Keeps You Coming Back
When people come to visit me in Japan, it always amazes me how much they travel around.“We’re going up to Nagano, down to Shikoku, then ....
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Barrel Fever
In late November, I found myself frantically searching for a bottle of barrel-aged taruzake. I checked several stores and was met with the s....
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So It’s the Week after Christmas, and What Have You Done?
“Are you absolutely sure?” I asked. “Shouldn’t we talk about it?”“No, no,” JP said, shaking his head and gently waving his han....
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Breakfast of Champions
It was a whimsically warm autumn morning. The sky was the placid blue of a Magritte painting, and the leaves were flecked with rust. Even at....
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Falling in Love (Again) with Sake
The weather's been on a crazy emotional roller-coaster ride. We'd had a pretty chilly cold snap a couple of weeks ago. Then, after days of w....
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Oodles of Noodles
Like so many revolutions, the rise sanuki udon began with a book. Sanuki udon, Shikoku’s special brand of thick wheat noodles, had long b....
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